A CATHEDRAL REACHING FOR THE HEAVENS AND A BRIDGE HEAVING WITH LOVE.

 

You tell someone that you are going to Cologne and the listener immediately says, “to see the cathedral?” One of the largest gothic churches with its over five hundred feet tall double spires aspiring to touch the heavens, looked more majestic and awe-inspiring, when I saw it in person last week than the images I had seen on Google. It was there just in front of us as we came out of the cologne central train station. We could have spent hours there but for the tiredness from the plane and train journey.

We had to move and find our hotel which was fortunately not too far. Once in the room, after a strong cup of coffee and a quick face wash we came out and walked to the Domplatz (Cathedral Square.) We walked around cathedral admiring the exquisite carvings covering every square inch of the walls and the doors. We did not go inside, that was for tomorrow. Savour the dish patiently.

We walked to the promenade on the riverbank. There was a tourist boat about to go cruising on the river, we ran and managed to get aboard. Cruising on river with the setting sun, passing under the arches of multiple bridges on the Rhine was picturesque. The grand spires of the cologne cathedral on the bank were always visible providing an interesting backdrop.

Next day early morning after a hearty breakfast at the hotel we slowly walked to the cathedral and queued at the entrance. When I asked, if a ticket was needed, the clergyman at the door said, “not unless you want to climb over 500 steps to the top of the south spire”. I said, “If it was 490 steps, I would have done it.” we both laughed. Inside was as magnificent, if not more, as outside with its high arched beamed roof, brightly coloured stained-glass windows, ultra-high monolithic black marble altar and many other invaluable objects d’art. No wonder it is a UNESCO world heritage site.

    Walking behind the cathedral towards the river Rhine, we saw a triple arched ornate bridge with a glittering fence. As the Sun was directly opposite it, the fence seemed like studded with multi-coloured jewels. This was Hohenzollern Bridge one of the ten most famous love-lock bridges in the world.

     We climbed the rampart and walked on the footpath along the bridge. The fence on either side is covered with thousands of small locks which lovers have put there and thrown the keys in the river with the hope of eternal love. The inscriptions on the locks made an interesting reading. It is neither the longest nor the widest bridge in Germany, but it is certainly one of the most picturesque with the imposing gothic spires of cologne Cathedral on west bank and a very tall cylindrical building (Koln triangle) on the east bank, thus joining the old and new, metaphysical, and materialistic. The wide simmering Rhine underneath reflected these structures in reverse.
  

We came down the rampart of the bridge on the other side and walked to the Cologne Triangle building. At its roof there is a panoramic observation deck over three hundred feet above the ground. It gave a jaw dropping view of the beautiful city with hundreds of spires, domes, and parks. The Rhine with its multiple bridges, flowing through middle of the city added the proverbial cherry on the cake.

By the time we reached our hotel we were extremely tired, but it was worth it. We slept like a log.

    Next day we visited the large, multi-storey Ludwig Museum which has an extensive collection of modern and contemporary art from the beginning of the 20th century up to the present including a substantial display of Picasso’s paintings, drawings, and sculptures. The building itself is an architectural gem. We had our lunch in the artistically decorated restaurant at the ground floor. And then we spent another few hours exploring the top floor.

Third day, we had to slow down and lazily walked around in the city centre and the charming Old Town. We bought a few gifts and souvenirs. We also enjoyed the street cafes and had Kölsch Beer at a Brauhaus. Later in the evening we walked on the surrounding cobbled streets then sat at the steps of the cathedral, soaking the ambience.

Bonn, the birthplace of Beethoven is only half an hour away from cologne by train. It was the capital of Germany after the second world war till 1990. It is also one of the oldest cities in Germany, founded by the Romans in the first century AD and is steeped in history. It would be a sacrilege not to visit. We spent one whole day exploring the main attractions of the city, the Beethoven’s monument and house, Old Town hall, Bonn-Munster, Opera house, Remigius Church, Rhine Promenade, Alter Zoll, Hofgarten and Market square.

At Beethoven’s house, seeing that many people have written in Japanese and Hebrew, Bibha wrote in the Guest book in Bhojpuri in Devanagari script!

Next day in Cologne we walked along the riverbank and enjoyed the large sculpture park and vast Botanical Garden. We took the ropeway from there to go on the east bank. From high up above the Rhine we had another panoramic look on the city. 

On the east bank is the Cologne’s largest and most beautiful garden Rhine Garden with multiple fountains, ponds, sculptures and of course the trees, shrubs, flowers, and ducks. It was created in 1957 on forty-eight hectares of rubble and debris from World War II, rising like a phoenix. We walked around in the park till late in the evening and the took a train back over the bridge to our side of the river. 

There we had to search the original 4711 Eau de Cologne store where from this popular perfume originated in early 18^th century. 4711 was the building number that was given in 1794 during the French occupation of the city. We had problem in locating it. Though the building is big, but the shop is very small and full of tourists, but we did find it after missing it twice!

There was much more to explore and enjoy in Cologne and the surrounding areas, but alas, our holiday was for  meagre 5 days.