Sunday, 5 April 2026

IN THE LAND OF PHARAOHS

IN THE LAND OF PHARAOHS


        Since early childhood when we were told in the Primary School about the seven wonders of ancient world, I wanted to see them. In high school, I learned that only one of the wonders remains intact, the Great Pyramid; the others are either missing or exist only as ruins.

The dream laid dormant till I became a doctor and had enough disposable money but by that time due to other responsibilities, other holiday destinations and the political situation in Egypt, I kept postponing the visit to the Great Pyramid.

This year Bibha, my wife got the brochures on classical Egypt tours and booked a guided tour as a new year gift to me.  Our trip was booked to start on 10th of March.

We were eagerly looking forward to this trip, reading the travel guides, checking the weather in Egypt and discussing what clothes to take there. Everything was going smoothly and as planned. And then….

Mr Trump and Mr Netanyahu started  a war against Iran 12 days before we were due to fly. Soon the whole of middle east was engulfed.

Up to the last day we nervously kept on checking the U.K. Government Foreign Travel Advice page and avidly watching all the news and relevant social media channels. Fortunately, Egypt remained quiet, no missiles or drones transgressed its skies, and no immediate threats reported. We reached our hotel in Cairo in the midnight on 10th as planned.

 In the morning we were greeted by a nice sunny warm day and a cheerful local guide, Mohammad, who remained with our group of eighteen, throughout the whole trip.

Very first morning we went to see the Great Pyramid, situated in the Giza plateau at the edge of Sahara Desert. I was so excited. Many a times a much-vaunted iconic tourist place fails to rise to the expectations, nothing like that here!

The Great Pyramid made for Khufu, 2nd Pharaoh of fourth dynasty was as majestic and commanding as I had imagined since childhood. The perfect geometric proportions of this ancient monument at this grand scale lets you awe-stricken. The pyramid is 146 metres tall and each side at the base is 230 metres. I touched a stone at the base and imagined it being carved by a stonemason 5000 yrs ago!

There are two more huge pyramids in the vicinity, one made by son of Khufu, the 3rd Pharaoh Khafre and the other by his grandson Pharaoh Menkaure. There are many smaller ones for their queens and important nobles.


The massive, Sphinx which have the body of a lion and a human head (said to be of pharaoh Khafre) is nearby.  After the great pyramids, this is the next most magnificent structure here. You cannot but admire those ancient architects, sculptures and engineers. 

One wonders how these people 5000 yrs ago built such massive structure.  Next day this mystery was solved.

Early morning next day, our guide took us to much older burial monuments in Saqqara and Dahshur areas of Cairo. There he showed us the Stepped Pyramid, and with a great flourish said that this pyramid holds the key to the mystery of The Great Pyramid. 

The Stepped Pyramid was built about 200 years before the grand pyramid. It was
the 
burial ground of Pharaoh Djoser the founder of the Third Dynasty, it was designed by his chief architect, Imhotep. It is made of six rectangular platforms of diminishing size, creating steps and reaching up to 60 metres. Each rectangle had evolved from earlier tombs (mastaba)which were made in the shape of rectangular mudbrick boxes with a flat roof and were only a metre or two high.

We saw another pyramid in Dahshur, Bent Pyramid. This was built after the stepped pyramid in a bid to create a smooth sided pyramid. It appears bent because the architect had to decrease the angle half-way for stability. This was built by pharaoh Sneferu father of Khufu. Its height is 104 metre.

From the experiences gained from these pyramids; architects were able to design and create the perfectly smooth surfaced Great pyramid for Khufu!

The Pyramids were not built by aliens or magic but by the unsatiable ambition and inquisitiveness of human beings. Their ability to learn from both, the successes and failures of past and their determination to persevere to reach their goals.

After 3 days exploring Cairo, we flew to Aswan for our Nile cruise for exploring the rest of the wonders of Classical Egypt along its banks.